What is a Cappuccino?
The cappuccino is a staple across the world. It’s the perfect balance of espresso, milk and foam. I love a good cappuccino. So, why is it so misunderstood across North America? Why do some shops even consider serving a 20oz cappuccino? When I walk into a cafe to order a cappuccino and the barista asks, “what size?” I politely either switch orders or walk out. Because I know it’s just not going to be right. So, let’s see if we can bring some understanding as to what this cappuccino drink actually is. But more importantly, what it’s not.
History Lesson
The derivation of the name leads us all the way back to the coffee houses of Vienna in the early 1700s. You’d find a drink called the cappuccina, black coffee mixed with enough milk or cream to duplicate the color of the Capuchin Monk’s robes (medium-dark brown). But, it wasn’t until the invention and popularity of espresso machines and espresso bars in Italy where the real “cappuccino” was created.
In Italy, the cappuccino is a single shot espresso mixed with foamy milk, served in a 5-6oz glass. That’s it. There’s not any specific direction regarding really frothy foam or micro foam, so people can mess around with this as much they’d like. Personally, I’m not a fan of getting a super dry foamed cappuccino because 99% of the time I’ve been served one, the milk was burnt and it ruined the whole drink. But, that’s just me and my preference.
In Italy, the cappuccino literally translates to “little cap“. This perfectly describes the foam that sits at the top of a cappuccino.
The False Definition
Let’s take a look at the what the cappuccino is not.
It’s been quoted that a cappuccino is 1 part espresso, 1 part milk and 1 part foam. This is a false definition of a cappuccino. It was created somewhere in the 1950s and dispelled by James Hoffman in his book, The World Atlas of Coffee. I’m gonna go with James on this one.
As far as I can tell, this is the only definition I can see that actually gives any leeway on allowing multiple sizes. The problem with this is it leaves the only correct part out of the definition; the size.
I’ve talked with shop owners that allow a 20oz cappuccino (yes, I recently found out this was a thing) and they always site this definition as the correct definition. However, this isn’t even a cappuccino according to the above definition. Because a 20oz cappuccino would require a whopping 14 shots of espresso. 14 shots. So, let’s be real, they’re not even creating anything remotely close to what a cappuccino is, even with the wrong definition.
The other problem with a drink like this is determining the correct amount of foam and milk. It’s difficult to even loosely try to make equal parts foam and milk, since the foam is part of the milk. This is why, I’m assuming, the foam on these drinks are so thick. It’s easier to quantify and fill up a cup to the brim with thick globs of foam. In my opinion, this tastes like shit. Because the baristas aren’t trained well enough to make this type of foam, so end up burning the milk in the process, which leaves you with a burnt tasting pile of overly steamed milk.
The Correct Definition
There is a correct and standard definition of the cappuccino. The following, which I quite like, is from the Specialty Coffee Association and is used in the World Barista Championship.
“5–6 oz coffee and milk beverage that should produce a harmonious balance of rich, sweet milk and espresso. A cappuccino is prepared with a single shot of espresso, textured milk and a minimum of 1 cm of foam depth (assessed vertically).”
This has been the standard of what’s expected when being served a cappuccino. In most specialty shops across America, it’s a double shot of espresso and served in a 6-8oz vessel. But, that’s the only real difference. This is the standard definition of a cappuccino. And anything else bigger and with more foam is just a dry latte.
Why This Bothers Me So Much
This wrong definition has never sit well with me. The cappuccino, to me, is kind of the perfect espresso drink. It’s almost the perfect mixture of espresso and steamed milk that doesn’t overpower the espresso. You can still taste the espresso and the notes that it pulls out. Outside of the girbralter, the cappuccino is my favorite drink. And for sure my favorite to-go drink.
So, when I order a cappuccino and get something that’s completely different than the drink I ordered, it bothers me. Now, I’m all for giving what the customers want, but then why pervert the name so much that it actually confuses the customer even more? It’s similar to what Starbucks did with the macchiato. The average consumer thinks that a macchiato is a latte where the espresso is poured on top of the milk.
How I Handle The “Large Cappuccino” Order
As a business owner, I’ve dealt with this order a handful of times. Generally speaking, people look at my drinks and menu and see that it’s a specialty coffee cart, but the customers want what they want. So, what do I do if a customer asks for a large cappuccino? I tell them we don’t do sizes, but I can make you a latte. I can even make it foamier if you want that. This works 100% of the time. The customer walks away happy, and I don’t violate my integrity on the matter. It all works out! Because honestly, I know what the customer wants when they ask for this, and I’m more than willing to give it to them. After all, I’m in the service industry. I’ll make a cappuccino iced, dry, wet, with sweetener, etc… However, if it’s larger than 8oz, I’ll still make it! But I’ll call it a latte.
In Conclusion
After working in the coffee industry for the last 10 years, the cappuccino is treated as a yardstick to the quality of the cafe you’re ordering from. I use the cappuccino as a way to test out new shops. The cappuccino is kind of a confusing drink when you see the real thing, and what other shops are offering as a “cappuccino”. But only because the drink has adopted this wrong definition, and people took that and ran with it.
So, when making a cappuccino, do it correctly. Or call it by another, more fitting name.